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A Sunday Drive to the Backcountry
By Kathryn Fletcher
November/December 2025
 A clipping of the 1933 Los Angeles Times feature story that inspired this SOHO eNews article. Note the sketches of historic sites. Courtesy Warner Springs Historical Society |
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 The Santa Ysabel Art Gallery, housed in an inviting old bungalow at 30352 Hwy 78, is a well-respected showcase for regional fine art. It has expanded along the highway to the Ted Berryman Garage Gallery (pictured) and an adaptively reused 1950s gas station, aka the Glass Station Gallery. Courtesy Santa Ysabel Art Gallery |
 Once a major Butterfield Stage Stop, the Warner-Carrillo Ranch House recently welcomed members of a Model T Ford Club to Warner Springs. Photo by Kathryn Fletcher |
 The Anza-Borrego Desert Natural History Association was built with a desert-rock facade at 652 Palm Canyon Drive, Borrego Springs. Courtesy ABDNHA |
 The design of the new Borrego Art Institute is a 21st-century version of the town’s well-known Mid-Century Modern architecture. It offers exhibitions, classes, a patio snack bar, and ArtPark gardens. 665 Palm Canyon Drive at Christmas Circle, Borrego Springs. Courtesy BAI |
 The Julian Pioneer Museum, 2811 Washington Street, Julian, presents the town’s history from 1869 to 1900 within the restored walls of Joseph Treshil’s former blacksmith shop. Courtesy TripAdvisor.com |
Remember the family Sunday drive?
On Sunday morning, November 19, 1933, the Los Angeles Times published a long story detailing a solo trip in a Chevrolet convertible exploring San Diego’s backcountry via dirt roads (photo at right). Lynn J. Rogers, the paper’s automotive and outdoor editor, motored to points of interest along the Butterfield Stage route, including what is now the Warner-Carrillo Ranch House Museum that SOHO operates.
Flash forward 92 years and a road trip today can explore much of the same area, which is relatively unchanged, and more. Late fall is a ripe time to “leave your worries on the doorstep,” as the song goes, and to support museums and parks, and get out in the great outdoors.
This scenic, circular loop can take up a whole day or the better part of one, depending on the number of stops. We suggest you start with a full tank of gas, pack a picnic lunch, pick up picnic fare, or stop at a restaurant along the way.
Before leaving home, check each site online or call ahead for their days and hours, as schedules can change or be limited.
A good starting point is the junction of state highways 78 and 79 in Santa Ysabel, where you’ll find the Santa Ysabel Art Gallery in three buildings along 78. The main gallery, in a 1930 bungalow, shows works by regional artists, including the late James Hubbell. The complex creatively extends to Ted Berryman Garage Gallery and the adapted 1950s Gas Station Gallery, aka the Glass Station Gallery. (Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.)
Enjoy breakfast, lunch, and/or treats at Farmhouse 78 or Dudley’s Bakery, both on 78, or order take-out for a picnic.
Returning to 79, head north about half a mile to the Santa Ysabel Nature Center. This county park and nature center features nature displays, hiking trails, and a playground. Not far down the road is the historic Santa Ysabel Indian Mission and Cemetery and a small museum to explore.
Continue north on 79 through the Santa Ysabel Valley to the Warner Valley. Turn right on San Felipe Road (S2) where, within a half mile on the left, you will find the Warner-Carrillo Ranch House Museum, a National Historic Landmark since 1962 and open on weekends from noon-4pm. Built in 1857 by Vincenta Carrillo, a prominent early Californio woman rancher, the adobe ranch house became a major Butterfield Stage Stop. Find visitor info on SOHO’s website.
Heading east on S2, turn left onto Montezuma Valley Road, passing through Ranchita and down into Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. As you reach Borrego Springs, turn left to take in the exhibits at the Anza-Borrego State Park Visitor Center and Desert Garden. Return to Palm Canyon Drive and park near Christmas Circle, where an art show or farmer's market may be in progress.
Your next stops are nearby. The Anza-Borrego Desert Natural History Association on Palm Canyon Drive has a wonderful bookstore, garden, and information on classes and hikes. Pick up a pocket guide to Galleta Meadows, an untamed sculpture park of sorts on Borrego Springs Road North. With 130 large metal renditions of real, mythical, and prehistoric creatures by artist Ricardo Breceda, you’ll be treated to lots of photo opportunities and fun for the whole family.
Retracing your route back to Christmas Circle you will see the beautiful new Borrego Art Institute. Enjoy its exhibits of plein air paintings and pottery, and a lovely patio and snack bar.
Leaving town, turn right onto Borrego Springs Road, going south, then turn right onto Yacqui Pass Road. Just past Scissors Crossing is a plaque where the San Felipe Butterfield Station once stood.
The road is now called the Banner Grade, Highway 78. This scenic, steep and winding route is the back way to Julian. If your road trip is on a weekend, you will likely find less traffic driving this route, but be prepared for limited parking once you arrive in this popular mountain town.
Of course, there is much more to do in Julian than devour its famously delicious apple pie and buy fresh cider, including visiting the Julian Pioneer Museum, your last stop. Now, return to Santa Ysabel on 78, passing Wynola, and your journey ends at the junction of 78 and 79, where you started.
Along the way, you will have supported small museums, nonprofit organizations, and family businesses with entry fees, donations, and purchases. You’ll have discovered interesting places on your own. And you’ll now know San Diego’s distinctive, historic backcountry a lot better.
Google map of the route.
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